“Beauty is more important than impact. Harmony is more important than intensity. The whole of any wine must always be more than the sum of its parts. Distinctiveness is more important than conventional prettiness. Soul is more important than anything, and soul is expressed as a trinity of family, soil, and artisanality.” – Terry Theise
It’s been some time since my last post and while sipping the morning coffee, I read a quote that inspired me by Terry Theise. Taken directly from the Skurnik Wines website… “If it is true that the road of excess leads to the palace of wisdom, Terry Theise has been there and back. A brief perusal of his writing makes it quickly apparent that the man has no reservations about conveying his thoughts and feelings on wine, life, sex, philosophy and general cosmology. In Terry’s world, it’s all inter-related.”
Terry works for Michael Skurnik Wines and has over many years, achieved a loyal following not only for his wine selections, but also for his passionate writing. Beyond writing annual catalogs covering the wines of Germany, Austria, and Champagne, Terry also has recently published his first book, Reading Between the Wines. Should you find yourself worn and thirsty for original thought amid a sea of mundane tasting notes, lifeless critical point scores, and a general lack of soul in wine, I recommend you read Terry’s book for an invigorating boost of passionate perspective.
I wanted to bring this post to the surface in honor of Rick Bakas’ #pinotmoment movement. This, was my Pinot Moment and a very memorable moment (night) it was…
(Originally posted August 2009)
Recently, amid a night of inspiring company and satisfying food I found myself torn – caught in the crossfire of two developed and mature wines, in what turned out to be a Pinot night to remember. Reflecting on the experience brought this thought. If pressed to identify these two wines by sex, both would indeed be female. Beautiful, elegant, and civilized in their seductive charm.
Prior to dinner, my attention went to the 1999 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir from Mendocino. She was sophisticated with nine years of refinement. Upon opening, the mild-garnet wine gave effortless pleasure. A playful nose of spicy red fruit coiled with notes of tobacco, burnt toast and hints of bitter chocolate. Denying no fruit – bright, tart cherry flavors conjured childhood memories of campfires filled with “pudgie pies” stuffed with cherry filling. Carbon laced raspberries lingered on the finish reminding me to stay serious. No doubt, a beautifully polished Pinot from the North Coast of California.
Just before dinner, we were graced by the star of the evening. The spotlight shifted, the crowd went silent and the 1981 Mayacamas Vineyards Pinot Noir from Napa entered the room. As the capsule was removed, a formidable cork was revealed. I actually think I heard the cork laugh (though politely) at the waiters corkscrew I brandished. As I proceeded with care, the laughter grew to a roar and erupted as I swiftly broke the delicate cork in two…
Undeterred, we called in the professionals and with the skillful twist of an Ah-So corkscrew, we were back in business. For over 40 years, Bob Travers has been making wine the old fashioned way. Situated high atop Mount Veeder, Travers’ winery is a testament to all things traditional as outlined in a recent article by Appellation America. Cement vats are employed, fruit is never over ripened, substantial tannins are allowed and alcohol is kept low. This method produces very long-lived wines, allowing me to write about this wine today. Everything about the Mayacamas intrigued me. The label alone was captivating with a design like something out of a fairy tale. Even the material seemed artisanally made of a thick, fibrous texture that has worn well with time. Following a proper decanting to remove a few bits of crumbled cork, the wine was poured. Medium garnet at the center with an onion skin, orange hue approaching the thin rim, this lady prominently proclaimed her 27 years of uncontested maturity. Only a fine pedigree and graceful aging can produce the hypnotizing aromas and flavors that followed. My glass was a bouquet of orange peel and earthy mushroom draped over notes of coffee. Dusty, warm apple and starchy banana elements took me by surprise, showing depth. How does a 27 year old Pinot from a Cab house maintain so much fruit? Still medium bodied with dominant flavors of woodsy, sour cherry. Even after 30 minutes the grand dame held her fruit but with time the wine spun down gently, into an old world must as she faded away.
Torn, yes. Tough, grateful to have been able to dance with both.
Tasted by fermentedthoughts. Bright. Ruby. Intense. A rich girl for sure... Pulled, poured, and pause ... 10 min ... Sniff, sniff? PIMENTO POW! Up, off the floor - I dive in to find more salty olive brine, wrapped up in blueberry syrup and twiggy fresh, bushy red fruit. I hear a sultry, low, vanilla-infused French accent - as she speaks - decadent notes of coconut add confusion. Pinot Noir ... so feminine, obscure, intriguing ... Now, I sip. Dry and full, she's voluptuous and hot. Off the burner warm, dark Bing cherry juice glides along, spilling open to offer cocoa, fig puree, sweet forest berries and fleetingly funky, worn barn floor. Man, she's hot. And intoxicating. (14.8% ABV) Nothing tame here. Indeed, a definitive example of hot vs. beautiful. - Tasted 2/13/2010.
It's electric! Dark n' deep gold - spraying viscous wafts of 93 octane premium petrol, sharp key lime spritz, and ripe Georgia peach. Grab a few white flowers, toss'em in the blender and puree some flamboyant apricot preserves. Now, add in sugary egg yolks, salty pistachios and some fresh shaved truffle. Whoo awww... Ride the Rhine river to Pfalz and get some! I had the chance to meet Ranier Lingenfelder, proprietor, at the New York Wine Expo back in February, and this guy's family has been doing Riesling since the 14th century. Trust the tradition.
This summer, I was hot for Lopez de Heredia and yet, I missed my opportunity to purchase this wine when it was first released. So, tonight - I jumped when my local Sommelier pointed out something special on the list: The 1998 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia. Excuse me? Yeah, it's a mouthful. Even before opening, the color seduces you ... In the glass, vibrant peach rust hues lure you into the bouquet of sweet marzipan, bright red fruit, warmed sawdust, dried apricot, peach cobbler and deep, wet sandy notes. The briny minerality is scary ... Think of laying on a warm, wet beach towel, fresh out of the ocean. If I were blind, I'd guess this as a red. So full, the mouthfeel is unreal. Tart cherry flavors yield to cinnamon spice and as the roller coaster undulates up and down, we're lead from cranberry to wet and woolly sour lactic funk - butter milk notes give me flashbacks of Joly's Coulée de Serrant but, this isn't the Loire my friends... No, no. Twelve years of careful and calculated age show what precision oxidation does to dress up this Rioja cuvée. 60% Grenache, 30% Tempranillo, and 10% Viura intermingle playfully on the tongue and leave you in an mild aldehydic, Jerez like trance as the ethereal marzipan reemerges - morphing into a mature, restrained nuttiness ... Up and down and indeed, well worth the ride!
Step away from the bottle... Originally, poured to celebrate Christmas Eve dinner, we immediately knew there would be another present to open on Christmas day. Decanted overnight - the wine was allowed a solid 20 hours to unwind. The next day brought New World power and European elegance. Beautiful Bordeaux aromas of warm prune, moist Maduro cigar wrapper, gravel floor, and zingy blackberry liqueur - lead to eucalyptus, cedar and tomato green notes. The grace of Bordeaux mixed with the bold fruit of Sonoma. Very age-worthy.
Tasted by fermentedthoughts. Interesting vegetal green bean notes open to milk chocolate, spice, hickory smoke, and bright raspberry. Young strawberries and wet leaves are carried by soft tannins and dropped into a pile of fresh mushrooms. A unique blend of new and old world styles. - Tasted 12/23/2009.
Tasted by fermentedthoughts. Deeeep, mega purple... Sneeky medicinal eucalyptus, cracked peppercorn and wafty bacon fat fade into smokey n' savory buttered-toffee happiness. She's a round one! Tart, dark cherry paste, lined with vanilla-menthol lace. Nothing petite about it. The low-down on Lodi! - Tasted 12/21/2009.
Why not? Inexpensive Cremant brings class and nuance others cannot for $16. Vibrant green apple, subtle river rock, briney sour cream cake, and nice yeasty, toasty marzipan finish. Good fizz!
Pale rose in color, almost onion skin. Notes of almond, briney, wet stone and citrus. Candied lemon peel leads to a med body and flavors of umami wrapped raspberry. Nicely understated New So. Wales fruit.
Yeah, yeah. I know. I had surgery this morning… So! I ask you then, what is the proper wine to pair with Tylenol? In fact, I asked this exact question just now, of 50+ wine bloggers over on Twitter. The best answer received? Arneis. Decent, refreshing, but not for me. Not now.
Thinking for a moment, I recalled the words of an old friend, Frank Sinatra, who once said “I Did it My Way.”
What I really love about Riesling, is its modesty. Amid today’s market of over-ripe, over-extracted, over-blown wine, it’s easy to find respite amid the restrained, low-alcohol, yet bracingly flavorful richness of a good Riesling. Following this path, I’ve encountered mesmerizing bouquets and flavors that have arrested – all modestly wrapped in wine that left me feeling refreshed, energetic and alive.
Tonight I consulted the wine rack and selected the Bernhard Eifel Riesling Spatlese 2005. An excellent value, purchased at retail from Wine Library for $14.
Surprisingly greenish and faintly golden in color with a lively nose of lime, wet pavement, and citrusy meringue. Full on the palate with creamy vanilla hints reminiscent of Creme Brulee mixed with sweet Clementine, honey and a rich caramelized sugar finish.
Modest opulence with a citrus edge that Sinatra himself would be proud of. The Chairman would say… “The record shows I took the blows – And did it my way!”
While in Napa this past July, my palate began to dream… Vivid and fermented thoughts of rich mountain fruit dominated the reverie. Knowing this urge couldn’t be restrained, I quickly found my way to Spring Mountain Vineyard, and my palate was thankful.
Taken directly from the source: “Spring Mountain Vineyard is an 850 acre estate of forest and vineyard on the eastern slopes of Spring Mountain which rises behind the town of Saint Helena. The vineyard occupies about 226 acres of the estate and is broken into 135 small and separate hillside vineyard blocks. Each small block and slope has a unique soil, exposure to the sun, and microclimate.”
When I arrived, it was a beautiful day, the sun beat down and I couldn’t have asked for better hospitality. The pleasure of sampling a serious line-up of wine was soon to be mine.
We started with a refreshing 2007 Spring Mountain Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc. Barrel fermentation and sur-lie batonnage give the crisp juice a delightfully rich nuance. From here, we moved onto the decadent 2001 Elivette. From the famed ’01 vintage, this Gobelet-grown wine packs serious depth while offering seamless, elegant fruit and a velvety, prolonged finish.
We ended with a very special library release, the storied 1993 Spring Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. With only 760 cases made, this treat was rare. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 76%, Merlot 13%, and Cabernet Franc 11%, marry together from separate blocks transforming into something more than the sum of its parts. Still impressively young, the first release from the new estate, sets the bar high with a sweet kiss of cedar folded with classic blackberry, minty dark chocolate, and lead-wrapped earthy goodness.
As outlined on their website, “Spring Mountain Vineyard’s goal is to produce exceptional wines that showcase powerful mountain fruit that through gentle and graceful winemaking produces wine with elegance and strength.”
Given Spring Mountain’s cool, rainy climate compared to other AVAs, the vineyard’s vertical goblet trellising and resulting low yields, I find these vines produce wines that sing!
Should you find yourself in Napa, California in search of wine from serious mountain fruit - I suggest you find your way to Spring Mountain Vineyard and taste the dream.
Fur-what? Look people, wine can be confusing. Deal with it, I know I am. One bottle at a time. So many complexities: different countries, classifications, grape types, growths, regions, laws, wine making styles, minimum blending and aging requirements, terminology, terrior, sulfites, what to pair it with, how much you can drink before getting “rotten”, etc… Part of our quest here at Fermented Thoughts is to educate and perhaps, at times – to turn you onto something new.
First off, Furmint [FOOR - mint] is the principal grape used in producing Tokaji [TOKE-eye], Hungry’s renowned sweet, late-harvest, white wine made from Furmint, Harslevelu and Muscat grapes. Being thin-skinned and late-ripening, Furmint is often affected by noble-rot. This is a good thing. As this “rot” takes place, the grapes shrivel like raisins and lose most of their weight, leaving only the rich, sugar-concentrated essence of the grape that is kneaded into a paste and added to the base wine produced one-year prior, allowing it to ferment a second time. The result is a very rich, sweet white wine that is both lush and balanced. Some argue Tokaji rivals and even surpasses French Sauternes.
Now, here’s where it get’s confusing. Furmint, by itself is also vinified into a dry white wine exhibiting both high acid and alcohol from the cool, long growing seasons of northeast Hungry.
While there is always contention as to “who was first” regarding wine, the Hungarians are quick to point out that they were the birthplace of quality classification between 1700-1720, followed by Portugal with the 1756 classification of Port and then France’s Great Classification of Bordeaux in 1855. Prince Rakoczi II of Transylvania first classified the vineyards primae classis, secundae classis and tertius classis or 1st – 3rd growths. This system outlined quality and is still in place today.
Quality production however dwindled during the Communist takeover of the Hungarian wine trade and it wasn’t until the fall of the iron curtain, that Tokaji truly began its renaissance. The Royal Tokaji Wine Company was founded in 1989 by a group lead by Hugh Johnson, the prominent wine authority, to secure a future for Tokaji and to preserve a dying art. Located 125 miles northeast of Budapest, Royal Tokaji produces many wines but, only five single vineyard wines including Furmint.
The video above goes further to showcase not just the rich wines themselves but also the rich and storied history of the region.
Royal Tokaji Furmint 2006 - Retail $14
Light golden hay in color, Royal Tokaji Furmint 2006 opens with a hot and intense nose hinting at its 14% alcohol by volume. Nonchalant tropical notes of kiwi and banana skin float on with time and mix in among layers of citrus and thick toasted nuts. At first the palate is restrained but really picks up momentum and jumps out at you in full-force on the finish. Full-bodied and tangy, subtle flavors of honey, ripe lemon and tropical mangosteen are flanked by a light cosmetic nuance.
Rewarding, biscuity marzipan leads to a mouth searing acidity that says “I am Hungarian and proud of my tradition!” Really, this wine is so very similar to the Aligote I enjoyed recently with such a high acidity but, rewarding fruit and layered, complex flavors. I’ll be keeping my eye on this producer and you should too.
I was told but, cannot say that I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing, that this was no ’55 or ’58 (both excellent Rioja vintages) however, the 1956 Marqués de Riscal Gran Reserva Rioja energized, impressed, and indeed educated my perpetually parched palate. How often are you able to enjoy and taste something 53 years old? Rarely… To that point, there’s been a lot of discussion in professional wino circles of late about Gran Reserva Rioja’s ability to age, and age well. Seems that many Spanish winemakers are now choosing to age their precious Tempranillo less in oak, to preserve the natural flavors and produce a lighter wine with more fruit clarity – key for today’s new-world driven palates. So, less Gran Reserva, more Reserva and much more Crianza.
This Rioja seems a little nonconformist. I respect that. Rather than the typical blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and perhaps Garnacha or Mazuelo – this beauty is 55% Tempranillo and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, and thankfully so. One key reason it aged so well, I’d wager, is the heavy amount of Cab. Also adding staying power would be the four years it spent in French oak rather than the minimum of two years, required by DOCa law for Gran Reservas.
Brick red to onion skin in color, the wine announces its age as it clears to the rim. One of the most interesting bouquets I’ve come across showcasing primary notes of leather, olive tapenade, tobacco, fresh brewed coffee, cedar, and faint secondary hints of caramel laced red fruit.
On the palate … BANG … this juice still rocks! I don’t know about younger Gran Riservas but, I stumbled upon electricity here. Very much alive, holding tight hands with some serious acidity, carrying it along its 53 year journey to refresh and caress my palate. The once powerful tannins have all but vanished in favor of a light, toasted profile. Over time, she has unwound – now offering flavors of dried herbs folded with tart, smokey cranberry.
Grand, graceful, a bit majestic … leaving one to think – what if I had tasted this in ’56? Your palate thanks Marqués de Riscal for holding until today!
Today, I have the pleasure of tasting an amazing lineup of Spanish wines with Pancho Campo, MW as part of the Society of Wine Educators conference in Sacramento.
This wine proves that Spanish whites can age and, age well. Eight years of cask ageing bolsters this beauty and allows us to taste 1970, today.
1970 Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva Rioja Blanco:
85% Viura, 15% Malvasia.
Vibrant golden with a complex perfume of olives and truffles. Full on the palate, giving massive puffs of orange peel and toffee. Serious acidity will carry this bottle for years to come.
Barry Schuler (former CEO of AOL and now VC and Vintner) addresses the crowd on new technologies and how they apply to the business of wine. The Wine Bloggers Conference is indeed up and running at full speed.
This man is passionate and can read an audience. Humor is just as important as knowledge when commanding a room.
Key take aways: Right now, we’re going through “Death Valley,” where traditional media is deflating faster than new models are being developed. Today’s new business model is “if they come, we will build it!” We’ve gone from broad to narrow to micro and now, nano casting. The message continues to get more fragmented; however, every downturn leads to opportunity. Wine Bloggers are reshaping the media industry and so long as they stay passionate, build a brand, tell the story well and continue to survive – they may ultimately thrive.
Disaggregation and fragmentation is bound to consolidate in a new form with time… Those that stay strong will be the victors who cash in on the opportunity.
Just enjoyed a nice 1982 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon… Freakishly young with plenty of horsepower to carry it for another 5-7 years. Nice brick red color with cranberry, anise and dusty black pepper on the nose. Restrained palate with fine tannins and faint black berry and licorice spice. Seriously elegant. Not my first encounter with Mayacamas. Not my last.
Just shy of one year ago I set out on a journey. A journey of taste. Accompanied by two close friends, together we formed an impressively insatiable force. Our stomachs were empty, our palates dry, and our spirit strong. Seeking sustenance for the mind, body, and soul we soon found ourselves sitting at Italian and French tables and feeling very much at home. As we trekked through Pisa, the Cinque Terre, BeauSoleil, and Monaco, good times were had and many a bottle shed its lifeblood in our glass…
In less than a week, Fermented Thoughts will invade Italy once more – feasting on culture. We’ll be in search of lively Ligurian wines, freshly caught Mediterranean cuisine, and views that exude the essence of laid-back, riviera living. After hiking from Monterosso al Mare to Riomaggiore, we’ll find our way to Florence, back up to Pisa, over to Portofino and back again.
Until we return with a new sack full o’ pics – enjoy last year’s harvest!
Jesus did it (well, in reverse…). Doc Hendly did it. We did it and you can too!
In 2003, Doc Hendley was a bartender from North Carolina that had a dream. That dream became a reality in 2007 when he founded Wine to Water, a non-profit organization who’s mission is to support clean water projects – helping deliver fresh, clean, and sustainable drinking water around the world.
How did he do it? Wine tastings! Quoting their website “…The first fundraiser was a great success. With its success, and others to follow, came a confidence that Wine to Water would continue to grow as an organization. As a result, wine tastings became just one of many ways that we raise awareness and support for the global water crisis. We have worked to provide clean water and sanitation in many countries including Sudan, India, Cambodia, Uganda, Ethiopia, and Haiti.”
Since 2004 Doc’s organization has brought sustainable, clean water to more than 25,000 individuals in more than 5 countries. ”
Doc’s dream, and now the goal of Wine To Water, is to quench the thirst of the needy in a way that sets them apart from the rest of the world.” -Wine to Water
Doc’s story humbles and inspires. Join us in raising a glass to Doc, his team and to all of those who work to quench the thrist of the needy and in doing so, help to make our world a better place!
Royal Tokaji Furmint 2006 - Retail $14
